Theo, what interesting things did you bring this time to Dubai?
Theo: In addition to the permanent collections, I brought back something that is still being worked on. This ring is dedicated to the beauty of the Middle East. In its final form, this work will present three elements: a ring, a magnifying magnifier that can be worn around the neck like a necklace, and a box where the ring will be stored. Using a magnifying glass, you can see the "world" inside the ring: a desert, a caravan of camels, tracks on dunes. In addition, I am thinking of making a box for the ring in the form of a Bedouin tent. If you don’t put on the ring, it can be stored as a collectible exhibit.
You pay amazing attention to the smallest details.
Theo: Yes, because I want to get back to the idea that jewelry is not just creating products to order or for the market. This is the oldest and most beautiful art. Jewelry is always very sentimental, and the creation of real luxury goods is a very intimate process. Unfortunately, today jewelry is treated more like a fashion accessory. But what interests me most is craftsmanship. I would like to think that my jewelry will be dear to the heart of the buyer.
You call jewelry talismans. But do you yourself have any special talismans?
Theo: Wherever I go, I always take an album with me with my sketches: here is a portrait of Gandhi, here are landscapes, here is a bird, the flight of which I watched two days ago through the window. I take a notebook with me and at meetings with clients, so that during the conversation I can immediately visualize their wishes. Recently, I was at a meeting with a client who ordered eight silver glasses as a gift. She wanted to capture on the glasses of birds, their game and the beauty of the flight. I quickly made sketches - each picture took no more than two or three minutes - and she just chose the style she liked.
You draw beautifully. Why did you decide to devote yourself to the profession of a jeweler?
Theo: I was always impressed with the idea of telling stories in detail. In my youth, I decided to go to Byam Shaw Art School. In addition, I am a big fan of sculpture, and I treat every detail very carefully. After school, I started working at Edward Barnard, a company that made silver appliances. I developed for them the design of different models, which were subsequently exhibited in the jewelry yard of London! Of course, such an experience could not but affect my future choice. All Edward Barnard workshop employees loved their craft and were happy about it. It was then that I realized that I wanted to devote my entire life to jewelry.
Every time I look at Theo Fennell jewelry, I am amazed and fascinated by your creative imagination.
Theo: I constantly observe and, in general, try to look at things with my eyes wide, because inspiration can come at any moment. Recently in Shanghai, I saw birds dancing in the trees to the music of the 40-50s. It was very surreal! I was impressed and amused by the way they fingered. I called them "radio birds" and immediately began to draw a "singing" tree and unfold the story around it.
Looking at your jewelry, it seems that you were greatly influenced by the aesthetics of jewelry of past centuries.
Theo: I believe that it is impossible to create anything without the influence of the past. It’s true - my style was greatly influenced by ancient jewelry: Roman, Byzantine, Celtic, Chinese, Japanese. It seems to me that in those days art was at the peak of its development, so I would advise young jewelers to turn their eyes to the past. Here you can draw a parallel with music: Bach, Beethoven, Mozart, Chopin - this is an eternal classic, and, without knowing it, it is impossible to develop or understand music. I really want to hope that soon the golden era of the arts will return.
Are there any jewelry masters whose work you like?
Theo: I like the work of jewelry master Andrew Grim of the 60s and 70s. I grew up on its design. Also I am impressed by the work of Parisian jewelers who made orders for Napoleon.
You have some pretty bold collections where you use "skulls". And so the connection with the sculptures of Damien Hirst is traced ...
Theo: It's funny that you talked about it. I made a ring with a portrait of Damien. And if you open it, you will see that very famous “skull” decorated with diamonds. I like the conceptual art of Damien, as he worthily defends his vision. I, like him, love the symbolism of biblical stories.
Do you use any innovative techniques to create your jewelry?
Theo: We use holograms, in particular in vintage castles. Recently, my students put forward an interesting idea with a chip for reading information: for example, it can read information about your birthday, or how much you weigh!
Who are your most famous fans?
Theo: Lady Gaga and Elton John. Here they definitely know how to wear my jewelry. Often, the main thing in jewelry is not beauty, but a sense of style and character. It is remembered better. Jewelry gives personality and, most interestingly, can be removed from the face for a couple of decades without plastic surgery!
In your opinion, Theo Fennell jewelry will suit Russian women?
Theo: Of course! I like the theatricality, glamor and the daring nature of Russian women. They seem to rule the world - they know how to position themselves so well! I trace the incredible difference between Russian women and everyone else. And that is wonderful. Their strong spirit and experimentalism give them every chance to be the standards of style.
