Interestingly, most of the fragrances from Angel Schlesser are paired, and this reflects the artist’s deep philosophy - the combination of "yin" and "yang" - gives the Universe a perfect balance. This year, the designer was pleased with the new "sweet couple": men's and women's perfumes Oriental Soul are presented on the UAE market. The masters behind the birth of the "soul" of the eastern composition of the designer - Francis Delemont and Marie Salaman - talked about recipes for creating aromas, personal addictions and more.
Marie, what inspired you to create the feminine fragrance Oriental Soul pour Femme?
My first trip to Dubai. I was captivated by the contrast of cultures, extreme femininity and chic of women who are not afraid to wear bold aromas with notes of vanilla, wood and rose.
What makes your perfume different?
The connection between the pronounced, sensual femininity and the "courageous" notes of patchouli, vetiver and cistus. This contrast makes the aroma even more intense. You create fragrances for the Swiss perfume designer Firmenich.
How did you manage to reproduce the atmosphere of the East?
When I work on a new fragrance, I try to recall my impressions of the country where I traveled, but also new materials help me a lot. In Firmenich, we have a huge database of fresh, natural ingredients, as well as notes based on oud, sandalwood, which are famous for the aromas of the East.
Tell us which ingredients did you use?
Top notes are fruity and sweeter. This is a combination of peach, mandarin with the poetic freshness of a freesia flower. The notes of the "heart" reveal the "femininity" of the fragrance thanks to jasmine, hawthorn and heliotrope. Finally, vanilla in combination with notes of almond and musk makes the aroma more “comfortable” to wear, while the woody accent and vetiver give it more masculinity.
For which woman was Oriental Soul created?
The woman who wears such a perfume is incredibly luxurious and feminine. She is attractive, elegant and always looks “straight away”.
Like any kind of art, perfumery has also undergone a peculiar evolution. What are the trends for today?
My profession has given me the opportunity to learn a huge variety of odors. In some, I manage to find sensuality, the right texture, elegance. One of the trends, in my opinion, is the use of woody notes in women's fragrances. Also, the packaging has become much more chic.
You said you work with a lot of smells. What smell do you personally dislike?
I am a perfumer, and my tolerance to strong and “complex” odors is very high. By the way, "noses" often use aromas that are unpleasant in everyday life, but it is a real art to find hidden, incredible smells in the most ordinary things.
However, to be honest, I don’t like the smell of hot milk and the French gratin dish.
Share advice on how to wear perfume?
I love to put a drop of perfume on my hair, this gives a certain charm to the whole look of a woman.
Francis Delemont, creator of the male song Oriental Soul Pour Homme, also shared the idea of creating a fragrance.
Francis, what is the “heart” of Oriental Soul?
It was very interesting for me to create a fragrance characteristic of the East and its rich culture. To do this, I used woody shades with accents of roses and fruits.
Which man would like Oriental Soul?
Confident, charismatic, elegant. A man who loves attention and even to some extent is a tempter.
How do fragrance preferences vary by region?
The success of spirits is determined by the traditions of the local population. Olfactory habits originate in childhood. For example, Americans love fruit flavors, and Asians love fresh floral aromas.
Among the fragrances of Angel Schlesser there are other "Oriental" series, for example, Oriental Editions. How is the new men's fragrance different from them? This perfume has more woody notes, so it is drier than Oriental Editions.
What ingredients do you like to work with?
I love sandalwood, patchouli, musky and woody shades that we specially design at Firmenich.
Do you have hateful smells?
Of course! This is the smell of oil and the Paris subway.
There is a certain ethic of wearing spirits. Please share with our readers how to wear perfume in accordance with the situation.
I think the climate influences a lot: in hot countries it is easier to wear fresh aromas during the day, and heavier ones to leave for the evening. For work, you should choose a mild, defiant aroma, and for sports - as light and refreshing as possible.
