Far away music and lights

NEW VAN CLEEF & ARPELS HIGH JEWELRY ART COLLECTION DEDICATED TO LEGENDARY AND MOST FAMOUS BALLS

"A truly aristocratic entertainment filled with allegorical, mythological and satirical scenes surrounded by music, dance and poetry ..."

This definition is given by Prince Jean-Louis de Fosigny-Lucigne, one of the last secular lions of the 20th century. But how to accurately determine a dream, a holiday, finally, a miracle? But this is precisely what is at stake. In any language, the word "ball" wakes up the same images. A moment of luxury and harmony. Great place, exquisite decor. The art of being elegant both in ball gowns and in fancy dress. Reception hosted by the host or hostess who receive the most senior guests. In this case, the ball is like a fabulous casket for decoration, an occasion to show rare jewelry, sparkle with stones. Nowhere has this word found only exquisite embodiment, as in France. Louis XIV, who arranged luxurious costume parties at Versailles, drew up the rules for them. Marie Antoinette proposed a lighter version of them, the code escaped, hiding behind a mask, to dance in Paris at the balls at the Opera. During the Second Empire, the ball turned into a sensual waltz, which waved in the movements of the crinolines.

Nowadays, a ball is a moment of unique sophistication. Often balls are costumed. Those invited in a few weeks begin to prepare more and more intricate outfits. Some of them created such recognized couturiers as Gabriel Chanel ("Ball of the Forest" in 1939), Christian Dior ("Ball of Kings and Queens" in 1949), Pierre Cardin ("Ball of the Century" in 1951). or Yves Saint Laurent ("Ball of the Chapters" in 1956). Count Etienne de Beaumont, who served as the prototype of the protagonist in the famous novel “The Ball of Count d'Orgel" by Raymond Radiguet, is one of those who will raise the ballroom tradition to the highest degree of elegance. In his mansion, balls were noisy until 1949 ...

House Van Cleef & Arpels decided to renew such a Parisian and so French tradition. The new collection of high jewelry art “Bals de legend” (“Legendary balls”) presents five sparkling precious tales, inspired by the magic balls of the 20th century. Each of these stories tells of an unforgettable evening and presents an amazing dancer as the main decoration.

Since 1941, brooches in the form of ballerinas entered the artistic heritage of Van Cleef & Arpels. Five brooches were specially created for the new collection, each of which depicts a graceful dancer. And that they invite you to penetrate the magical world of the five "Legendary balls." The jewelry presented in this collection is a happy opportunity to discover a real treasure chest: a real cluster of rare stones shines in them. Since the foundation of the House in 1906, experts have traveled all over the world in search of exceptional "stones with character" that will decorate products made in van Cleef & Arpels workshops. The most valuable of them - an emerald from Colombia weighing 20.12 carats, sapphire from Sri Lanka 25.15 carats, a diamond (color D and clarity IF) weighing 15.54 carats, yellow sapphire 30.76 carats and a natural pearl weighing 17.92 carats. They are framed in five unique rings that are exhibited in special cases. Necklaces, brooches and rings are a true technical and artistic feat that became possible only thanks to the skillful work of the "golden hands" of the masters of House Van Cleef & Arpels. The skill of gem buyers, artists, jewelers, cutters and grinders, acquired over the years of training and invaluable knowledge and experience, carefully preserved for over a century in the workshops of the House, allowed the creation of Joyaux de legende (legendary jewels). So, let's talk about balls and unique jewelry masterpieces.

Ball at the Russian court of the XVII century

Winter Palace, St. Petersburg, February 11, 1903

An unimaginable sight worthy of old Russian fairy tales. St. Petersburg is shrouded in ice. At the main entrance of the Winter Palace, one after another the sled stops. Having thrown the furs to the lackeys' hands, the guests head to the Jordanian stairs leading to the front rooms. A striking contrast: baroque gilding and marble - and almost medieval costumes of guests.

The theme of this evening was chosen by Empress Alexandra Fedorovna herself: the Russian court of the 17th century. Ladies are dressed in sundresses of velvet and golden brocade, generously decorated with expensive embroidery and trimmed with fur. The jewelry was redone so that they could be sewn to the outfits. As if a string of Byzantine icons passes through huge halls towering above the frozen Neva.

For an exceptional ball, an exceptional venue was needed, and there was no more fabulous place to find than the Winter Palace. The Imperial Front, Mykolayiv Avantzal, the Concert Hall, an enfilade of halls overlooking the Neva, is one of the most ambitious palaces in the world. Guests are placed according to the rank in one of these huge halls.

At nine in the evening, Abyssinian servants open the doors to the Concert Hall. Oberkamerger three times hits the floor with a golden staff crowned with diamonds. This gesture heralds the appearance of the imperial procession. Emperor Nicholas II and Empress Alexandra are dressed as Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich (1629-1676) and Tsarina Maria Ilyinichna. The royal couple will need three quarters of an hour to slowly pass through this crowd, sparkling with pearls and precious stones in the light of thousands of candles. As an exception, Empress Alexandra will allow photographing the most beautiful costumes of this ball, which will be remembered as a swan song of the Russian Empire.

RING "PROVIDENCE" "Foresight".

This is the first of five unique rings created for this collection by Van Cleef & Arpels. Tsarist Russia served as a source of inspiration for him. The Van Cleef & Arpels House jewelry collection really has a diamond diadem with five emerald cabochons belonging to the Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna, sister of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna. Therefore, it was decided to insert an emerald cabochon in the form of a "sugar head" weighing 20.12 carats into this ring. The stone was brought from Colombia. Colombian emeralds discovered in the 16th century by the Spanish conquistadors are considered the most beautiful in the world. This ring, like four other rings from the collection, is exhibited in a special case. The case is decorated with floral patterns inspired by embroideries on costumes worn in 1903 at a ball in the Winter Palace.

  • Sugar-head emerald weighing 20.12 carats, emeralds, purple and pink sapphires and diamonds

BROOCH "DIAMOND DANCER" "Diamond dancer".

This magnificent ballerina is a reflection of the image of the Russian imperial court of the beginning of the XX century. Each diamond, selected and cut in the most thorough manner, occupies a strictly defined place in the frame in order to convey the weightlessness of the fabric.

The dance tradition of the Russian court dates back to the 18th century. In 1738, Empress Anna Ioannovna invited the master of the French ballet, Joseph Lande, to found the first Imperial Ballet School in St. Petersburg. This decoration symbolizes the artistic merger of Russia and France, combining a ballet tutu, classical for French ballet, with a kokoshnik - a traditional Russian headdress.

  • Diamonds

LONG NECKLACE "ZIMA" "Winter".

The Van Cleef & Arpels necklace was inspired by the architecture and colors of winter Petersburg. It consists of about one and a half thousand lapis lazuli beads, the color of which resembles the blue of the baroque facades of the palaces of the empire. It took VCA jewelers a few months to match all the beads in color. This stone is mined in Central Asia, in the remote provinces of the vast Russian Empire, which included a significant part of Asia. The diamond motif evokes the architecture of St. Petersburg. It can be removed and worn separately as a brooch.

In this case, it is replaced with a snowflake decoration reminiscent of the snow that falls on the city on a winter night. This winter in St. Petersburg gave its name to the necklace: Zima. Majestic and precious, it continues the tradition of transformable jewelry, which Van Cleef & Arpels so values.

  • Lapis Lazuli Diamonds and Beads

18th century Venice Carnival

Palazzo Labia, Venice, September 3, 1951

An invitation ticket read: "Ten o'clock in the evening," but nonetheless, two hours before the deadline, all the bridges and embankments of the Grand Canal were full of people. No one wanted to miss the show. Don Carlos, as he is called here, wished to give Serenissima a present! Costumed ball, as in the days of her greatness. Celebration of Glory! Charles de Bestegi is the richest heir to the Franco-Argentine dynasty. He was born in Paris and lived for many years in his castle Gruss, not far from Montforl'Amory. The 18th century is his passion, whether in France or Italy. That's why he bought in Venice the luxurious Palazzo Labia, whose main hall was painted by Tiepolo himself. What is the theme of his holiday? Of course, the XVIII century.

The elegance of the guests is the main condition under which the ball will be successful. "Ball of the Century" is a vivid confirmation of this. That evening, Jacques Fat, the famous French couturier, swims up the entire Grand Canal, standing in his gondola.

His suit of the Sun King, generously decorated with gold embroidery, was sewn right on him, and he cannot sit down. Arturo LopezWillshaw, his wife Patricia and Baron de Rede went even further in sophistication: they ordered a Chinese junky in harmony with their costumes. They were inspired by a series of tapestries of the 18th century, known as the "Travels of the Chinese Emperor."

Lady Diana Cooper, the most elegant and most amazing woman of the Cafe Society, decided to fit the style of the city, having reincarnated as Cleopatra of the 18th century. "Don Carlos" dressed up as the prosecutor of the Republic of Venice. In the folds of a long mantle of red brocade, standing on the cottages that make it taller, he receives guests. In Piazza San Jeremiah, behind the Labia Palazzo, he built a platform for four thousand spectators so that they would not miss a single detail of this solemn meeting. Inside and outside the Labia Labia, "Ball of the Century" will make noise until dawn.

BROCHURE "COLORED SAPPHIRES DANCER" "Sapphire Dancer".

Bright and playful ballerina made of colored stones in the Venetian style. The image of the marquise or courtesan of Venice from the time of Casanova served as the inspiration for the creation of this bold brooch. In this era, in the XVIII century, the doge city already lost some of its political influence, but still remained one of the most carefree and colorful cities in the world.

This decoration recalls the celebration, carnival and grace of Venice. The fan crowning the toilet of this ballerina is not just an exquisite accessory. In the XVIII century, with the help of a fan, a love code was transmitted. Depending on how you hold it, it will mean “date,” “place,” “time,” or some feeling. The outer folds of the dress turned out to be so multicolored due to the use of sapphires of different colors.

They seem to be decorated with ostrich feathers to match the fan. The inner part of the skirt, on the other hand, is completely framed in white diamonds of cut baguette, pear or round cut.

  • Diamonds and color sapphires

RING "BAUTA" "Bauta".

The second of five unique rings of this collection. The inspiration for him was a baut - a mask-symbol of the Venetian carnival. It is carved from gray mother of pearl on both sides of the ring. Traditionally, a cocked hat and a black veil were also worn with a bout. It was very fashionable in the 18th century Venice, and not only during the carnival, but throughout the year. This mask was captured by Hardy and Tiepolo. A sapphire weighing 25.15 carats, inserted into the frame in the center of this ring, was brought from Sri Lanka. It took months to find this unique, very clean stone in bright blue. The blue color of the case corresponds to the color of sapphire in the ring

  • Sapphire 25.15 carats (origin: Sri Lanka), diamonds, emeralds, turquoise, onyx and mother of pearl

Ball "Black and White"

Plaza Hotel, New York, November 28, 1966

This evening, in the ballroom of the Plaza Hotel in New York, everything is in black and white. There is a high American society and a significant part of the European aristocracy. The writer Truman Capote gives a ball in honor of his literary success. He decided to celebrate the rise of his fame by inviting the "500 most famous people in the world." Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Vivien Leigh, Mia Farrow and Frank Sinatra represented Hollywood. There were billionaires, families of Agnelli, Rockefellers and Niarkos, as well as former monarchs - the Duke of Windsor with his wife and Maharaja Jaipur from Maharani. Representatives of political circles, in particular, several members of the Kennedy family, also attended. Everyone dressed according to the theme of the evening: “Black & White” or “Black and White”.

Ball is first born in the imagination of the owner or hostess. On April 28, 1966, in New York, the happy elite responded to the invitation of someone who called himself "America's most famous writer." In 1958, the novel "Breakfast at Tiffany's" provided Truman Capote with extraordinary literary fame. In Hollywood, they even shot a film on it, in which Audrey Hepburn gave the main role. Eight years later, world fame came to Truman Capote. His latest book, Cold-blooded Murder, has been a worldwide success. The ball "Black and White", a symbol of his achievements as a writer and journalist, nevertheless marked the beginning of his sunset. Never again, until his death in 1984 at the age of 59, Capote will not be able to relive this feeling of apotheosis, which gripped him when he was the owner of the legendary ball. Giving a ball always means taking risks.

Choosing invitees means denying others. The price for the Black and White ball for Truman Capote will be the fierce hatred of several people who have been refused. "He made 500 people happy by inviting them to the ball," relatives of Capote after his death will tell, "but he made thousands of enemies among those who were not invited."

JEWELERY "LOUP"

The black half mask is one of the accessories that is most often associated with the legend of Venice. First, women covered her face from the sun. And besides, they saved in this way incognito. On these jewels, it is fully encrusted with diamonds. The set includes a necklace and earrings. It uses traditional jewelry motifs and a unique ensemble of a rare variety of pomegranate - tsavorite. They are what is rare for pomegranates, a beautiful green color that ranges from a gentle to a very deep shade. Their name comes from the Tsavo National Park in Kenya, where their most significant deposits are located.

  • Tsavorites, diamonds, lilac and pink sapphires

BROCHURE "DIAMOND AND ONYX DANCER" "Dancer in diamonds and onyx."

The silhouette of the ballerina in this brooch is elongated, flowing, reminiscent of the legendary stars of the 1930s. Designed in art deco style, this brooch made of white diamonds and onyx exactly follows the dress code and the theme of the Black and White ball, which was arranged by Truman Capote in 1966.

As with all the other brooches of the “Bals de legend” collection, the ballerina’s face is represented by a rose-cut diamond made in the favorite Van Cleef & Arpels technique.

  • Onyx and Diamonds

DECORATION "HEAVENSCRAPER" Empire State Building.

New York architecture, its skyscrapers, and, in particular, the Empire State Building, have become sources of inspiration for this jewelry, consisting of necklaces, earrings and bracelets. Long strands of rimless pearls make it very flexible. But decorative elements from diamonds and onyx are nevertheless inserted into the frame on both sides of the necklace. This adornment continues the Art Deco tradition, the beginning of which at Van Cleef & Arpels was laid by René Puissan, creative director of the House from 1926 to 1942.

  • White cultured pearls, onyx and diamonds

RING "ABSTRACTION"

The third unique ring is a graphic sign of respect for the theme of the ball. The source of inspiration for him was abstract art. The ring is set in black “baguette” cut spinel, but the most important thing is that it has the most unique stone from the entire collection - a diamond of 15.54 carats, in which all the rarest properties are combined.

  • 15.54ct diamond (Color D, IF clarity, type 2A), black spinel and diamonds

East Ball

Lambert Palace, Paris, December 5, 1969

One evening in December in the upper part of the island of Saint-Louis, in one of the most magnificent residences of Paris - in the palace overlooking the Seine ...

Immediately behind the majestic gates, Paris disappears, giving way to the East with giant papier-mâché elephants who carry a guard in front of the front door to the Lambert Palace. Black guards with torches froze at each step of the stairs leading to the upper floor. On the landing that separates the front rooms from the Hercules Gallery, the owner of the house, Baron de Rede, is waiting for his guests. It is after this ball that he will become a legend. The son of an Austro-Hungarian banker, whom Franz Joseph granted the title of baron, was like a native of another century. He always tried to protect his life from ugliness, vulgarity and banal everyday life. Strong connections of the world helped him buy and restore this Parisian palace, where he lived for twenty years. “Some tried to imitate me,” he will write in his memoirs before his death in 2004, “but few have succeeded.”

Some of his secrets of a good evening became legendary: for example, before the arrival of guests spray with a spray several drops of perfume on bouquets of flowers. On the evening of the Oriental Ball, he asked the servants, who served a sumptuous buffet reception for guests, to regularly take dishes to the kitchen so that they would be refilled there. As he himself said: "There is nothing more depressing than half empty dishes."

Another of the secrets of Alexis de Rede was the impeccable skill with which he was able to compile guest lists. He was able to subtly combine in them beauty, talent, wealth, youth and, of course, friendship. The invitation to the "Oriental Ball" for several weeks spoke all of Paris. The chosen lucky ones were in a hurry to tell that they had received invitation tickets. hid their shame, inventing an urgent trip. Bridget Bardot, a 1960s French movie star, was dressed (or rather stripped) in a metal mesh that exposed most of her body. The two most sophisticated women in Paris, the Viscountess de Ribe and the Baroness Guy de Rothschild, chose two opposing versions of the East.

The first - in furs and embroidered scarlet silk, represented Central Asia. The second was dressed in the costume of a Cambodian dancer. The artist Salvador Dali attracted attention with a bright appearance with his muse of that time Amanda Lear. There was even a future queen in the Lambert Palace that evening: Crown Princess of Denmark Margrethe. She arrived with her husband Henrik to attend the ball, which, she was sure, would become a legend. Alexander Serebryakov, a ball decorator, will immortalize his interiors in the album.

RING "MACARA"

Makara is an Indian mythical animal. Despite the trunk of an elephant, it lives in the sea. This is the favorite mount of the goddess Ganges, who rules the sacred river Ganges. The decor of this ring is reminiscent of two papier-mâché elephants, standing on either side of the entrance to the Lambert Palace that evening, when the “Oriental Ball” of Baron de Rede took place. In the center of the ring is a yellow sapphire with a golden glow brought from Sri Lanka and weighing 30.76 carats. This unusually clean stone was not subjected to heating or processing. On some details of this ring, in particular, elephants, Van Cleef & Arpels used a pin fastening technique that emphasizes the beauty of the stones.

  • Sapphires, white mother of pearl, lapis lazuli, natural multi-colored pearls and diamonds

BROCHURE "DANSEUSE ORIENTALE" "Oriental dancer".

A seductive ballerina whose sensual grace recalls the sacred dancers from Hindu myths. Gold chains gleam on her wrist and ankle. The most original costumes of the Oriental Ball served as a model for this brooch.

  • Yellow and white diamonds

DECORATION "FLEURS MYSTERIEUSES" "Fabulous flowers".

In the East, red is the color of celebration and happiness. And on the evening of the Oriental Ball, it was this color that prevailed in the interior invented by Baron de Rede. The decoration consists of flowers from rubies, located on wriggling diamond stems, reminiscent of the abundance of Asian flora. This set consists of a necklace, earrings and a ring. It particularly emphasizes one of Van Cleef & Arpels' most valuable technologies: the "invisible" frame.

Invented by the masters of the jewelry house in 1933, the technique is to hide the frame, emphasizing exclusively the beauty of the stones.

  • White gold, round baguette and pear-cut diamonds, pink gold, “invisible” ruby ​​frame. 1.22-carat pear-cut diamond, color D, clarity IF

Proust Ball

Ferrier Castle, December 2, 1971

As some of the guests told, that evening a thick fog fell on the forest road leading to the castle of Ferrier. The air was filled with magic and mystery, as in science fiction films where ghosts meet. The perfect atmosphere to celebrate the centenary. Baroness Guy de Rothschild, whom many considered the queen of Paris, decided to hold a ball in honor of the centenary of the birth of Marcel Proust. The huge castle de Ferriere, built in the 19th century by the ancestor of Baron Guy de Rothschild, was the best suited for the ball. To choose a costume, the invitees had to delve into the epic "In Search of Lost Time". The cycle of seven novels has about 2,000 characters, the most famous of which are the Duke and Duchess de Germant, Charles Swan and Baron de Charles. “For a very long time no one has seen a meeting of 800 guests dressed up with such sophistication and such luxury, and with such elegance in detail. Exactly like the Germans, or rather, the Ferrieres ...”, the famous hairdresser Alexander de writes in his memoirs Bet. One of the most spectacular was the costume of actress Marisa Berenson.

She chose the role of not the character of Proust, but one of his contemporaries - the Marquise of Kazati. Extravagant in the choice of outfits, wayward and domineering at the same time, Kazati was the muse and patron of many artists of the "Beautiful era". Marisa Berenson very impressively performed her role that evening at the Proust Ball.

Where, if not at the ball, to demonstrate the most beautiful of their jewelry? And they were at the Proust Ball. The Duchess of Windsor donned luxurious canary-colored diamonds. They were complemented by earrings decorated with the same diamonds. Elizabeth Taylor's hairstyle was adorned with a diamond mesh specially created for her by Van Cleef & Arpels. The hostess of the ball adorned herself with ten strands of pearls, a wide diamond bracelet and two rings with diamonds of a very impressive marquise-cut size.

BROCHURE "ROSEMONDE" "Rosmond".

The final ballerina of the collection is a graceful young girl. Her name is Rosmond, this is one of 2,000 characters created by the French writer Marcel Proust in his greatest work, "In Search of Lost Time." Rosmond appears in the second volume, "Under the Canopy of Girls in Bloom." The brooch resembles the “young pink-cheeked girl” described by Proust. It symbolizes the grace of women of the "Beautiful era" - the beginning of the twentieth century

  • Sapphires, white mother of pearl, lapis lazuli, natural multi-colored pearls and diamonds

MISS AUDREY RING Miss Audrey.

In the center of this ring stands a natural pearl weighing 17.92 carats. Such pearls have now become very rare. This pearl, remarkable for its weight, is also beautiful in that it has a pinkish sheen. The ring evokes the outfits worn by contemporaries of Marcel Proust. Its diamond frame imitates the folds of dresses of the Belle Époque fashionistas. Mnogoshil was invested in the volume of folds. Thanks to them, the decoration looks alive and moving.

DECORATION "OISEAU" "Bird".

The feather - whether it be an ostrich, a hummingbird or a bird of paradise feather - was one of the symbols of the Belle Epoque. Elegant fashionistas never wore it as often as during the time of Proust. In the third novel, “At the Germans,” in the series “In Search of Lost Time,” Proust lingered for a very long time on the description of the feathers falling from the forehead of the Duchess de German. This jewelry, consisting of a necklace and a pair of earrings, resembles birds - an image, dear Proust (he compares some of his heroines with the bird goddesses) and House Van Cleef & Arpels. In jewelry, feather work is particularly delicate. In this decoration, jewelers gathered one. As a result, the birds created in the Cleef & Arpels workshops look like they are about to take off.

  • Blue sapphires, one of which is a 4.85-carat pear-cut, lilac and pink sapphires and diamonds

And the music ...

"What about the music?" - you ask ... In the end, you have to dance at the ball. Well, music, perhaps, in the organization of the ball is the simplest. Although the most beautiful. To see this, it may be worth turning to the movies. The most brilliant films pay tribute to the ball. It’s enough to watch some scenes from the films “Leopard”, “War and Peace” or “My Fair Lady” .... Listen, maybe the music is already heard in the distance? And the lights sparkle? This is your ball!

Watch the video: Sarcueil - Far Away From Light (April 2024).